General information on Olvera
Dominating the surrounding valleys of olive groves, Olvera’s castle and church epitomise the history and culture of an Andalucian pueblo blanco. At the cross roads of Malaga, Seville and Cadiz provinces in the Cadiz Lijar mountains, it is one of the frontier towns over which the Moors and Christians fought for during the Moors’ 700 year occupation of Andalucia. With its 643 metres above sea level this stunning town cascades white houses down the hill which has so effectively protected it against outsiders whether Visigoths or tourists. For this is one of the few untouched villages of Andalucia left.
Olvera has lived Andalucia’s history intensely and although you can find remains of previous civilizations, the village itself has remained unchanged over the past centuries. Start your day at the top of the “casco antigüo” or old town. Don’t look for the usual tourist signs – there aren’t any. However all you have to do is look up and walk through the whitewashed streets to the castle whose outline against the blue skies can be seen for miles around.
Once up at the top take a moment to look out at the surrounding countryside which is typical of Andalucia, valleys of olive groves with an impressive mountain range in the distance. The Moorish castle, built on the foundations of a Roman keep, has been recently restored so that you can climb up to the top and truly understand the strategic importance of Olvera. Facing it across the square which regularly hosts travelling artisan fairs is 19 th century church which comes to life in “semana santa”. There are few holy weeks left in Andalucia where tourists are not an integral part of the goings-on but here in Olvera you will be almost alone among the Spanish as the Virgin Mary is taken down on a sea of candles to the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Los Remedios, through the tiny streets defying both gradient and corners. It is an experience for the five senses, candles light up the Virgin’s face and the surrounding peaked hats of the penitents, incense catches your throat as the alter boy swings the censer in time to the local band playing music whose beats have not changed since the Christian’s re-conquered Olvera from the Moors. Finally, once the procession has passed by, watch the children picking up the warm wax that has dripped on the cobbled streets. Alternatively come for the Lunes de Quasimodo or second Monday after Easter Sunday when the procession to the shrine in the countryside is a feria of chorizo, wine and dancing to give thanks for rain. This is a fun alternative to the exclusive Seville feria; here visitors are part of the party and locals, both old and young, are only too happy to show you the basics of sevillana dancing. You can join in again at the San Augustin feria at the end of August. If flamenco is your passion then head to neighbouring Pruna in August for an informal flamenco strum, song and dance from the relatives of the legendary Cameron de la Isla.
Back in old town Olvera, take your time wandering through the recently restored barrio de la villa where the whitewashed streets twist and turn so much that only pedestrians can go. Experience arriving at the stunning, step stopping views from the city walls. Here you can really lose yourself in the heart of the pueblo blanco and imagine what it is to form part of the tranquil Andalucian way of life. Through open doors you can see old ladies in black preparing the mid-day meal with ingredients bought from the local market whilst children play on the streets. As you walk down to the main street, stop at the ayuntamiento square for tapas and understand the meaning of the motto above the main entrance arch, “de mi sale la paz”. For peace really does reign over this town and your visit. Alfonso XI rescued the town from the Moors in 1327 and from then until 1843 it was part of a feudal estate until the Duke of Osuna claimed bankruptcy in 1843. The beautiful town houses of the local aristocracy still line the main street and now one is a café another was a casino, but many still hold remnants of their noble ancestry. However there is more to Olvera than you may see when walking through the streets, where locals welcome you with a smile and a greeting and then carry on with their way, for many a business is run discreetly from the front rooms of a home. The increasing population of northern Europeans help each other out as there are no signs in English advertising “eggs and chips”. Several local restaurants serve up hearty Spanish meals, tapas and vino in old restored houses: “Olvera Es Una Calle, Una Iglesia Y Un Castillo, Pero ¡Qué Calle! ¡Qué Iglesia! Y ¡Qué Castillo!” proclaims the town’s website, Olvera is one street, a church and a castle, but what a street, what church and what a castle!
At the very bottom of the hill, on the northern side, is the start of the Via Verde, an old unfinished railway route that cuts through the hills into the heart of the Puerto Serrano hills and was once going to join Jerez to Almargen. The old station is now a charming hotel, which serves superb food in the restaurant, and eating there is a good reward after having discovered the pleasures of the Via Verde. A recent project has given new life to this once forgotten track with its six dramatic viaducts and twenty-four tunnels that form a part of the 38km route, as now the surface is all tarmac. Suitable for families with small children, serious cyclists or even horse-riders the views and peace is breath taking. A behind the scenes, unique chance to make your way alongside hidden farms and through groves that are home to many species of protected birds. The more adventurous may wish to get an eagle-eye view of the area, in which case, contact Fly Spain in nearby Algodonales and paraglide over the natural parkland. For those who have more of an inclination for sailing we go to the Zahara lake. Manmade, this extraordinarily blue lake is used for all sorts of leisure activities including fishing and canoeing.
Whatever you decide to do, bring your camera, as there are no souvenir or postcard shops, only corner shops selling the local gold. Olive oil from Olvera is considered to be one of the finest of Spain. It is used as the base for prize-winning bath oils, soaps and beauty treatments as well as for cooking that wonderful Mediterranean food, and can be bought five litres at a time: the secret is to go to the local co-operative and fill up your plastic bottles for a few euros a go.
Combined with low cost flights to Málaga and Sevilla (90 minutes drive) and Jeréz (60 minutes drive), Olvera is a stunning escape into the real Andalucia that is within easy reach of the UK. Once home again, the taste of the Olvera olive oil will bring back all the majesty of this white village set against the green valleys and blue skies.
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